NPL Day 5: Wednesday 21 June 2023

Austerbotnen-south of Ruoššajávrrit via Várdáncokka (emergency shelter)

During the night we experienced almost all 4 seasons. Quite heavy winds, heavy rain, hail and woke up to sunshine.

The sea water was still gone in the morning, and Lukas was so glad he managed a swim before the sea disappeared the day before.

The terrain this morning was okay - better than yesterday anyway but with more elevation.

When we reached the tiny (not even 2x2 sqm) emergency shelter Várdáncokka we took a longer break, had breakfast, Lukas took a swim and we aired our bodies and our clothes in the sun.

After the breakfast break we continued trudging upwards. Luckily the terrain was still good. While hiking upwards and on the top of the mountain we had two bird incidents. The first was by what we think was a long-tailed jaeger. Once again we were under attack and tried to hurry onwards as quick as we could.

The next bird incident we were hiking on the top of the mountain, beside a reindeer fence. Here and there were some rusty wires lying on the ground, so you really had to look out not to step or stumble on them. Suddenly Lukas screams out in panic WATCH OUT and since it comes out of nowhere, and the panic in his voice, Kim is so confused and doesn't manage to proceed what is going on. First thought is a wire, so she is looking for that. But in the moment she put down her foot, something is moving, and she side-steps, almost twisting her ankle in the action. A ptarmigan flies up, and Kim realises that her foot is like a few centimeters away from TEN eggs!

But the eggs all look okay, and the bird seems to be able to fly too. Luckily Kim didn't manage to put down weight on her foot so hopefully the bird was unharmed.

As we continued on the mountain it was incredibly sultry in the air, with no wind, so we were really sticky.

In the distance Lukas saw lightning, but it was really far away.

A while later some drizzle came, and Lukas stopped to put on a rain jacket. Kim hesitated, but finally put hers on too. We just managed to walk a few meters before Lukas says something about the rain that is in front of us. How it looks... Hard.

Then it started to pour.

In panic we pull out our rain skirt and rain pants and put them on as fast as possible. The rain becomes heavier and harder and soon enough it's hailing.

It rains for some time, but fairly quick it's over again, and the sun is immediately out and burning us with new intensity. We pull off our clothes and still are soon soaked in sweat again.

Luckily there is a small lake at the top of the mountain where we can refill our water bottles, that had been empty for some time.

We start making our way down across some snow patches, and there in between them somewhere, we find a small stream so we decide to eat dinner there. Home dried chicken in tomato sauce with some couscous.

But we didn't get to walk far before we started to feel a bit weird...

But the dinner that was nice! Whyyyy.

When we came down in the valley it was easy to walk and we were making fast progress. In one of the streams there we also saw a fish! 😱🐟

Just when we started to think about making camp soon, the terrain got more uneven and also more wet. But finally we found a spot.

There, Lukas swam again, and then it was time to sleep.

Today's:

Distance: 26,57 km

Start time: 10:11

End time: 21:58

Ascent: 872 m

Descent: 593 m

Tent nights: 6/6

Lukas swims: 2