Stewart Island / Rakiura
Day 1 on Rakiura
Saturday 14 December 2024:
We had an early breakfast compared to the past few days... At 10 we needed to check out of our accommodation at Tuatara Lodge, and that was also when the book shop opened. Yesterday we left a package there to be sent to Auckland and stored while we were hiking, but stupidly enough we had forgotten ONE item. So we went back to ask if we could open our package, put the item in and close it again. Luckily they were okay with this!
After buying some more food for the upcoming hike, we jumped on the shuttle (catch-a-bus) to Bluff. Then awaited the ferry that we had been warned about! And we understand why. What a rollercoaster... For real!
Once we arrived in Oban there was some rain. Still quite nice though. We walked around and took some geocaches until the food truck, Kai Kart, opened. We ordered two burgers (Bacon Butties) and a scoop of fries. Little did we know that a scoop wasn't just "a scoop", it was a whole freaking frying basket-thing! But oh my god was it worth it. Definitely good fuel for the hike!
We started with some winding roads and geocache stops, before finally making our way onto a path. Really nice green jungle-like path, but without the mud and roots, because it was really nicely maintained in a way that made it feel like we were almost walking through a garden.
We arrived at the campsite, and it seemed like we were... alone? So strange, being alone on this magical campsite! Sitting just by the beach, onto a grassy patch. What more could you wish for? Except for less sandflies because there were a lot of them here, like we've never seen before (but not so different to the blackflies in the Scandinavian mountains).
Hoping for no rain tonight, we crawl into our cozy quilts and say goodbye for tonight 🌙
Day 2 on Rakiura
Sunday 15 December 2024:
We woke up to the feeling of the soft breeze on our faces as we had slept with the tent open all night. Early start today, since we had a long day in front of us. Longer than we could have guessed...
The weather in the morning was perfect for hiking, and the terrain was nice, since we were still hiking on what's part of the Great Walks Track. Suddenly, Kim needed to stop to remove her wind jacket, and then Lukas heard something! It was a Kiwi bird 😍 We stood still and watched it for some time, and it didn't seem to either care or notice us. Such a cool experience! We found out later that seeing one in the wild is quite rare, even if the chances are higher on Stewart Island.
We reached the Port William Canpsite, where we had our breakfast among the sandflies. We also met the first other hikers here.
Immediately when we left the Campsite, and in that moment left the Great Track as well, the mud started 😂
The terrain now consisted of short hills going up and down, roots everywhere and mud too. It was hard to keep the pace up, but at least the forest was beautiful.
Halfway in we passed a Murray Hunter's Hut. Here we met some hunters that we talked to, and talked to, aaaand talked to. It was really difficult to leave.
When we finally did leave, the terrain seemed okay at first. But then it quickly got worse than ever. Lots of steep ups and downs, roots, high steps, slippery mud and trees fallen over the trail. The last 3 hours felt neverending, and just 1 km from the hut, Kim stepped over something, saw her foot twisting beneath her, and fell, but too late. She froze in pain, couldn't do anything but just hold her ankle and clench her jaw. All she could think about was how Te Araroa was ruined, before it had even started.
Lukas tried to talk to her, tell her to move her foot and toes, which she could. He took her backpack, and she slowly limped the last 1 km, using her poles as crutches. Every step hurt.
At the hut, Lukas pitched the tent, and we went to sleep, hoping it would be better tomorrow. Either way, we would make the decision about what to do tomorrow.
Day 3 on Rakiura
Monday 16 December 2024:
We decided to sleep as long as possible with Kim's foot in mind. When we woke up thousands of sandflies were already awake and waiting for us on the other side of our mesh inner tent. Kim got ready and hid in to the hut and had breakfast while Lukas took down the tent. We taped the foot and since it hadn't got worse, we hoped we could slowly make it back. If not, we would think of other options, like using the inReach (which we thought we didn't need, since Kim could still walk).
We started off slowly and hoped for the foot to get warm and less stiff. The beginning was slow and tough, but it got steadily better.
After a nice lunch break everything felt so good! Much nicer terrain then we remembered and sun reaching its way through the vegetation. Lukas had to dig a cat hole and Kim continued. Then we were already at the hut! Here Lukas took a swim and Kim cleaned her feet. Everything felt so much better. We pitched the tent outside the hut again, and then sat inside the hut for sometime, talking to a super friendly couple there - Marissa and Jan. We learned so much from talking to them, and we could probably have continued to talk forever.
Day 4 on Rakiura
Tuesday 17 December 2024:
We had a lovely morning with good company again for breakfast. But unfortunately we had to say goodbye and leave in different directions. Today the trail got gradually better and easier, and we arrived at Port William campsite quite early. We had debated what to do, but decided to keep going until the next campsite.
The foot had already gotten so much better and here at the next campsite we decided to walk all the way to Oban. In this pace we would make it there already before 19.
We camped at Stewart Island Backpackers and decided to have a calm "rest day" at Ulva Island tomorrow 🏝️
Day 5 on Rakiura
Wednesday 18 December 2024:
This morning we had booked a ferry for Ulva Island, and of course we got late! We had to run a little to catch it in time... Typical us (Lukas notes: Typical Kim)
We arrived right on time and we were off. Stupidly enough we carried around our backpack with all our gear the whole day, when we could have left it at Stewart Island Backpackers...
But anyway, we had a nice day, just walking around the island slowly, reading about history, plants and birds and looking at plants and for birds. It was a nice change to do some "touristy" stuff! And we got to see some cool and different birds.
Back at Stewart Island we finally had our Bacon Butties again (😍😍) and then spent the evening trying to catch up with everything as usual, and preparing for Te Araroa tomorrow...
